Neal Smith National Wildlife Refuge occupies a gently rolling corner of Jasper County, Iowa, about 25 miles east of Des Moines — and it exists to answer a question that Iowa rarely gets asked: what did this landscape look like before the plow? At the time of Euro-American settlement, roughly 85 percent of Iowa was covered by tallgrass prairie and oak savanna. Today less than one-tenth of one percent of that original grassland survives as native remnant. The refuge is the largest effort in the state to reconstruct what was lost, replanting native grasses and forbs on former agricultural land and building toward a prairie and savanna landscape that most living Iowans have never seen.
The refuge was established in 1990 and is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service under an ambitious long-term plan to restore up to 8,600 acres of tallgrass prairie and oak savanna on land that was almost entirely in corn and soybean production at the time of acquisition. The reconstruction uses locally sourced native seed harvested from remnant prairies across the region, ensuring that the genetic character of the grasses, forbs, and wildflowers being planted reflects the prairie that originally grew in central Iowa rather than a generic prairie seed mix. The result, now more than three decades in, is a mosaic of restoration fields at various stages of development — some still young and low, others approaching the height and density of mature native prairie.
What makes Neal Smith singular among Iowa's conservation landscapes is the combination of bison and elk on the same ground. Both species were present in Iowa before settlement and were eliminated long before any living person's memory. Their reintroduction to the refuge — bison in 1996, elk in 1997 — is not merely symbolic. Both animals graze and browse in ways that actively shape the restoration, opening patches of ground, distributing seeds, and creating the disturbance-based habitat complexity that prairie ecology requires. For the photographer, an elk in an Iowa tallgrass restoration with an overcast sky and young oaks in the background is an image that most people would not believe is possible within 30 minutes of a major American city.
93.2700° W
Jasper County, Iowa
Active restoration
Prairie & oak savanna
Elk (1997)
Iowa remnant prairie
Exhibits & programs
No pass required
All times are approximate for the Prairie City / Jasper County area of central Iowa. The refuge sits on open rolling terrain with unobstructed horizons in most directions, and the Iowa sky — wide, expressive, and frequently dramatic — is one of the most consistent photographic assets at any season. Low-angle light at dawn and dusk is when the restoration grasses are most luminous and the ungulates are most active.
Current auto tour route conditions, trail status, bison and elk herd locations, prescribed burn schedules, Prairie Learning Center hours, and visitor access information are maintained by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Check the refuge website before visiting, especially during spring burn season, winter storm periods, or after wet weather that may affect the tour route surface.